The waves were bigger than last week but at least it wasn’t foggy – in fact it was an absolutely gorgeous day, clear sky and hot sun. It was much harder though, especially walking out with the board, we just got battered by wave after wave! Some of them were strong enough to knock me right off my feet and back where I’d come from.
After all that, I would clamber ungracefully on to my huge foam surfboard and paddle frantically to catch the wave … only to nosedive straight into the water as it flung me mercilessly over. The instructors hollered at us to stand up, I tried a few times but only managed to get to my feet once or twice for a split second before ending up in the water again.I was worn out by the end of the lesson – at least it was good exercise! I’m not put off though, I love the water although I do wish the surfing classes were smaller – that’s what you get for learning at the weekend, in the summer! The instructors often tried to help by pushing us out into the waves, but by the end, I just wanted to be left alone to take my time and not worry about trying to stand.
I haven’t been put off yet though, in fact the opposite – I headed out after the lesson with Andrea to find a surfboard. Armed with advice from my instructor (look for a long board, which will be more stable) and a choice of about fifty shops but not much time, we started at the shop by the beach then headed to Aloha (via a spot of bikini shopping in Surfection …)I opted for an eight foot long board with a bright red-and-yellow underside and learned how to wax it and attach the fins, and how not to whack people with it when I was walking along. It is pretty heavy though, I was glad to put it down when I got it home!
Andrea convinced me to take it out for a quick ride, it was about seven in the evening but still just warm and light enough. I was so glad I did, the waves were far smaller and just perfect for my very low standard – no more nosedives! I even managed to get on one knee, briefly. I was too tired to last long though, but can’t wait to go back out after work!
- I’m on the left, paddling frantically but about to take another nosedive!
- Another mouthful of sea water … yuck!
- Getting a push into the wave as it rushes up from behind
- Concentrating on our instructor as he explains about rips and how to balance
- Lost the board again …
- And again!
- Navigating the surfboard out through slightly calmer waters, in between waves
- Rachel contemplating the next wave
- I’m catching a wave in while Rachel has to find a way over it …
- Rachel’s on the right – almost up! Woohoo!
- My shiny new surfboard, all waxed up and ready to go
- The beach, with an ocean full of new surfers
- Off out into the sea to try again
- These are the waves that nearly knocked me off my feet and dragged the board away
- Whoops! Off again!